Flight Into Another World

A Fly-In Safari to Namibia’s Remote Skeleton Coast and the Enchanting Shipwreck Lodge
Words: Julia Wieser

The rumble of the Cessna’s engine grows steady as we leave the runway behind. With just six seats, the cabin is snug. Wilfried, my husband, checks the fuel, scans the gauges, and guides us onto the airstrip. As we accelerate past 70 knots, we lift off—just as a herd of giraffes gallops through the ochre grasslands below, leaving a trail of dust in their wake.

We soar over camelthorn trees and the elegant bungalows of Otjimbondona Lodge. Then, as we gain altitude, Namibia's vastness unfolds before us.

Over the Sea of Sand

Wilfried Slaney is a seasoned pilot who earned his wings during his university years. After Namibia’s independence in 1990, he combined his love for flying with a career, transporting travelers to the most breathtaking and remote parts of Southern and East Africa.

Today’s destination is one of his favorites: the mystical Skeleton Coast, where the world’s oldest desert meets the icy Atlantic. This remote, fog-shrouded coastline has claimed many ships—and lives—over the centuries, leaving behind eerie wreckage as evidence of its unforgiving nature.

As we fly west, the first golden dunes of the Namib appear like a string of pearls. An unusually strong easterly wind shakes the aircraft, but Wilfried, ever calm, adjusts our course. Below, red sand glows through the grasses, and oryx antelope rest in the shade of scattered trees. Soon we are gliding above endless dunes that stretch to the horizon.

“Flying is freedom,” Wilfried says. “And I love the endless view.”

With over 9,000 flight hours under his belt, he navigates the Cessna effortlessly through Namibia’s dramatic skies.

Approaching the Skeleton Coast

The ocean emerges as a hazy blue streak on the horizon. We descend over Conception Bay, passing the ghostly remains of the Eduard Bohlen, a shipwreck from 1909 now stranded in the desert. After a brief refueling stop in Swakopmund, we continue north along the coast until reaching Möwe Bay—just a gravel strip surrounded by wilderness, where our Cessna will rest for the next three days.

Waiting for us is Bodo, our guide from Shipwreck Lodge. We pile into his 4x4 and journey through a surreal moonscape. To one side rise the towering dunes of the Namib; to the other, the churning Atlantic.

Shipwreck Lodge: A Sanctuary of Design and Comfort

Even from afar, Shipwreck Lodge’s architecture impresses. Inspired by the haunting shipwrecks scattered along the coast, each wooden chalet evokes the skeletal form of a stranded vessel. The interiors are warm and inviting, built from natural materials and rich wood tones that cocoon guests from the harsh winds and cold fog. A wood-burning stove offers comfort on chillier nights, and large windows open onto panoramic views of sand and sea.

The main lodge mirrors this design philosophy, with smooth, curved lines that blend seamlessly into the landscape. Here, guests enjoy delicious, sea-inspired cuisine from morning to night, including a refined three-course dinner with optional custom dishes. The open-air deck is perfect for sunset cocktails and quiet contemplation of the wild beauty around.

Sustainable Luxury in a Harsh Landscape

Despite its remote location within the Skeleton Coast National Park, Shipwreck Lodge is a model of sustainability. Operated by Natural Selection and partners, the lodge has earned an Eco-Award for its commitment to minimizing environmental impact. Solar energy, water conservation, and locally sourced materials are just the beginning.

Equally important is the involvement of local communities and support for desert-adapted wildlife. The lodge actively contributes to the Desert Lion Conservation initiative, protecting one of the planet’s most resilient predators.

Adventures at the Edge of the World

The Skeleton Coast may seem barren, but it teems with life for those who look closely. On a guided walk, Bodo points out each plant, track, and stone—explaining, for example, how the red sand contains oxidized iron and tiny garnet fragments.

Daily excursions offer even more discoveries: from the shipwrecks of the Karimona and Suiderkus, to abandoned diamond mines, or vast Cape fur seal colonies where hyenas, jackals, and even desert lions sometimes lurk.

A highlight is the search for desert elephants along the dry Hoarusib River. Aboard a 4x4, we navigate rocky riverbeds and granite gorges, hoping for a glimpse of these elusive giants. Even without a sighting, the journey reveals the otherworldly Clay Castles—towering formations sculpted over centuries by erosion.

Roaring Dunes and Golden Sunsets

On our final evening, we climb onto quad bikes, traversing the dunes until we reach a high ridge. The sand hums with vibration—a phenomenon known as “roaring dunes.” We stop and look out over the sea of sand to the Atlantic’s foamy surf, the wind tousling our hair.

As the sun dips below the horizon, casting the sky in streaks of gold and violet, Bodo serves us gin and tonic with dried meat. Silence and space stretch endlessly around us.

Perhaps this isn’t the end of the world.
But it just might be the most beautiful place in it.